Malta Gozo and Comino Rock Climbing Guide Books
Malta Rock Climbing the comprehensive guide
€uro 39.95 (includes p&p for Europe delivery)
Delivery hotline: +356 9945 8352
by John Codling, Andrew Warrington and Richard Abela
Published by Moonstone Communications in September 2007
Printed by Gutenberg Press Ltd, Tarxien, Malta ISBN 9789993205401
Front cover: Claudine Gatt on Le Poseur (E3/4 6a), Twin Caves at Ghar Lapsi. Photo: Daniel Cilia
Size: 21cm x 14.9cm x 2cm
Malta Rock Climbing the comprehensive guide is the definitive guide book to rock climbing in the Maltese islands. It was published 20 years after Malta New Climbs came out. A total of 1,275 climbing routes are described (of which 337 are in Gozo and 11 on Comino) and illustrated using attractive colour photo-topos. The book includes road maps, approach diagrams, very useful crag symbols (similar to Rockfax) and is interspersed with dramatic colourful climbing ge portable dishwasher photographs. The routes described are spread over a period of the last 60 years of local climbing, from the Second World War right until the end of 2006. Most of the climbing routes described in the previous guide books Walks and Climbs in Malta, Rock Climbing in Malta and Malta New Climbs plus all the new routes on log have been compiled into this great comprehensive guide book. There is a diverse range of climbing grades, giving the beginner, intermediate or advanced climber a varied choice of climbs in over 30 different climbing areas. There are five main styles of climbing which include the following:
Traditional: 984 single pitch traditional routes are described, the hardest being the three star classic The Crossing (E7 6c, French 8a), a 23 metre desperate steep wall and roof put up by John Moulding in 1999. There are routes both over the sea and inland in valleys and on rock outcrops. The grading used is the British adjectival/technical system, e.g. HVS 5a, E2 5b, etc.
Sport: 98 sport (bolted) single pitch routes are described, the cream of them all being Chasin` the Dream (French 7b), a 22 metre overhanging prow at Mgarr Ix-Xini in Gozo done in 1987 by John Moulding. Most of the routes are inland, however a few clip ups exist over the sea. The grading used is the French system, e.g. 6a, 7a+, etc.
Multi-pitch: 63 multi-pitch traditional routes are described for those who like to get really high, the all time classic being Continuation Wall (EI 5b), a 92 metre sea slab out on the Zurrieq sea cliffs, put up by Corporal Zeke Deacon R.M. way back in 1953. Most of these climbs are over the sea and consist of two or three pitches. The grading used is same as Traditional.
Bouldering: 78 bouldering problems are described for boulder clingers. The highest grade attained so far is V8, with Sombrero at Victoria Lines and Tlieta Cisk at Ghajn Ghabdul in Gozo, put up by Jeffrey Camilleri in 1998 and Cesar Vergara in 2004 respectively. The grading used is the American Hueco system , e.g. V0+, V4, etc.
Deep water soloing & sea level traversing: 31 deep water solos and 21 sea level traverses are described above the blue Med. The real classic is the three star DWS route Silent Warrior, 18 metres (E6 6b, S0) soloed by Jeffrey Camilleri and the most desperate is Superior Entity, 24 metres (E7 6c, S3) soloed by Crispin Waddy, both put up in 1999 near Ghar Hasan. The grading system used is the British descriptive with the 'S' grade.
Reviews: Climbing Magazine - the top climbing mag in the USA by Matt Samet.
UKClimbing.com - the top on line climbing data base in the UK by Chris Moor.
Malta New Climbs by Roger Brookes, Simon Alden
Published by the Fylde Mountaineering Club in 1987
Printed by Independence Print, Pieta, Malta ISBN 0 9511854 0 3
Front cover: Andy Warrington on Chilli Wind (E1 5b), 100 yards slabs at Hamrija Tower Slabs. Photo: Doran Caruana.
Malta New Climbs was published as a supplement guide book 16 years after Rock Climbing in Malta came out. A total of 257 climbing routes are described (of which 54 are in Gozo). The routes described span the period from September 1970 to January 1987, the hardest climb being Physique (E5 6a), a magnificent overhanging 45 metre high sea cliff at Fomm Ir-Rih, put up by John Codling in September 1986. The first ascentionists had either soloed or led their new lines using traditional protection. Today one can still come across the odd rusty peg or withered in-situ sling, relics from this era of bold trad climbing! The 70s and 80s have seen some of the best trad routes to have ever been done in the Maltese islands. The grading system used in this guide is the British adjectival/technical one.
Rock Climbing in Malta by Commander John D. Graham
Published by the R.N.M.C. (Royal Naval Mountaineering Club) in 1971
Printed by Eurasia Press, Singapore
Front cover: Fungus Rock (Il-Gebla tal-General in Maltese) in Dwejra Bay, Gozo.
Rock Climbing in Malta was published as a definitive guide book. This compilation includes original works by Showell Styles 1949 booklet Walks and Climbs in Malta and R.G. Higgins 1955 unpublished Some Maltese Cliff Climbs. A total of 191 climbing routes are described (of which 8 are in Gozo). The routes described span the period from Showell Styles 1949 descriptions to 1970, the hardest climb being Continuation Wall (VI -), a splendid 92 metre high sea slab, put up by Corporal Zeke Deacon R.M. in 1953. The routes were all put up using traditional gear and 7 climbs were done aided. There are some epic traverses described and along with some of the multi-pitch route descriptions, they make entertaining bed time story telling! The grading system used in this guide is the UIAA Roman numeral one.
Walks and Climbs in Malta by Showell Styles
Published by the Midland Association of Mountaineers in 1949
Printed by Progress Press Co Ltd, Valletta, Malta
Walks and Climbs in Malta was the first ever publication about rock climbing in Malta. This booklet was written during the second world war, when Showell Styles was stationed in Malta. A total of 30 climbing routes and 12 walking routes are described, all of which are in Malta. 15 climbing routes are described at the Victoria Lines, 14 at Ghar Lapsi and one at Wied Babu. The routes described span the war time period till 1949. The hardest grade attained was that of Difficult (Diff.)! The routes were all put up using the only available rock climbing gear of those times, namely a hemp rope and a pair of nailed boots! The leader simply tied the end of the rope using a bowline round his waist and the second just paid out the rope from below. Most of the climbs were broken down into ten metre (or less) pitches and boldly led from ledge to ledge. Belaying was simply done with the rope round one`s waist and shoulder. It was imperative in those days that the leader never fell! The grading system used in this guide is the British adjectival one. Easy, Moderate and Difficult are the only three grades described.
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